Sunday, July 24, 2005

Restaurant Petrus, Admiralty, Hong Kong

The gold draperies, big chandeliers and black marble columns of this French restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel could create an intimidating atmosphere, but the large tables with plenty of space in between them, candlelight and most importantly, the attentive and friendly staff create an inviting if slightly hushed setting. On the 56th floor of the hotel, the restaurant offers a fantastic view of Hong Kong harbor as well. The menu is primarily French, but with a dash of other influences from around the world, including Mediterranean and Asian (the restaurant describes its cuisine as "contemporary French").

I started with pan-fried duck liver served with roasted peaches and fig ravioli. The duck liver was just lightly seared in a pork loin reduction, accenting the the thick flavors of the liver with a sparingly seasoned outer layer of seasme seeds. The sweet peach slices and fig ravioli contrasted with the heavy tones of the duck liver. For the entree, I chose lobster baked in its shell, not a traditional French dish per se but delicious nonetheless. The lobster was prepared with a butter-based sauce of shellfish jus, and was also very lightly seasoned - possibly bordering on bland for some tastes. Spaghettini with truffles and tomato confit accompanied the dish, again contrasting with the more substantial lobster meat. Finally, for dessert, I chose a warm apple tart with ice cream. Unlike most, Petrus' apple tart was very thin with a crispy crust. A light sprinking of cinnamon on both the tart and the ice cream was the perfect finishing touch for the dessert. The restaurant is also known for its extensive wine list, though I did not order wine during my visit.

The service at Petrus was also impressive, combining a French elegance in service and presentation with the fastidious, highly attentive style so typical of Hong Kong's hotels and restaurants. Yet the staff manage the balance well, without becoming too intrusive, remaining friendly, and never taking themselves too seriously (a serious risk at a restaurant such as this one). As such, the ambience and setting are two of the restaurant's most appealing aspects (both tables to my right and left were celebrating birthdays, in fact), making the cuisine that much more enjoyable.

Restaurant Petrus
Island Shangri-La Hotel, 56th floor
Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road
Admiralty, Hong Kong
852-2820-8590

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